To get from a roughly ground blank into something that is ready for heat treating takes some elbow grease.
With the blade shaped out and primary bevels roughed, it's time to start working on the blade with the block and paper. Here I used some 100 grit paper and window cleaner as lubricant.
After some time, (well I'll be honest it was a few hours) and four full sheets of sand paper, I was happy with the results.
I marked and punched the holes "free style" as there are some small variations between the two in the bolster shapes.
My little cobalt bit set makes quick work of the holes. Just remember to go as slow as possible. Speed=heat: which kills bits. After drilling, I deburr the holes by lightly pressing and rotating an oversized bit. This will aid in getting the pins in later.
Here they are ready for heat treatment.
On the advice of Ray Rogers, I made some alterations to the full length bolster. The reason is after sharpening a few dozen times the blade will become shallower. The bolster will remain the same height and prevent the blade from contacting the cutting board fully.
The new shape looks like the this. Now the bolster will come about 3/4 of the way down and the blade can be sharpened for years before the bolster becomes an issue. Thanks Ray!