Tuesday, March 31, 2015

HT1 HIDDEN TANG - HANDLE WORK UP


 To make sure the guard fits on the blade tightly, I clamped it up and slipped a  6" length of 1/2" pipe over the tang. Then tapped it with a hammer.






Roughly cut some pieces of vulcanized fibre spacer material and drilled holes in to to make a slot to go over the tang. Be sure to clean the jagged bits off and make it smooth.







Some sugilite gemstone composite from Jantz Supply. I drilled the three 9/32" holes and made a slot with the same bit by pushing horizontally and riding the flutes.


Slipping each piece on the tang to test the fit.




A piece of stabilized Redwood burl goes on next. I cut the end on an angle to approximate the slant of the guard. There is a "natural" area on the end so I took advantage the piece by cutting that end.
Drilling stabilized wood is like drilling PVC. It's plastic.
Here I can slide the block on all the way. So far so good.
For an end cap, I have a slightly smaller piece of 3/8" 416 stainless. I drilled about 3/4 the way in and tapped it to 8-32. I had to make a bottoming tap by carefully grinding the tip.
I am going to need to shorten the screw by about 1/4" Here I am cutting it on the band saw. I had to tweak the length to get the cap to squeeze everything tight, but not bottom the threads into the cap. Some filing required.
A dry fit of everything before mixing the epoxy.
I clean the surfaces with acetone and mixed up 6 ml of Acraglas.
Gooping each piece on both sides and sliding the pieces on.
I filled the block by dripping Acraglas inside and pushing it in with a Popsicle stick.
Now the threaded cap goes on to tighten the whole thing together. A wipe around the ricasso is a good idea right about now. :-)









This is the assembly after glue up. Now to wait a day to cure.


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