Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Two FK3 Fillet Knives

Two 8" Filleting Knives for Christmas

The top guy is made from 3/32" AEB-L stock with a stabilized curly blue dyed maple handle.
The bottom is made from 3/32" 154CM stock with stabilized Karelian birch with 304 SS bolsters.
(Click for larger image.)



Toby said...

Beautiful as always

D. Comeau said...

Thanks Toby!

Unknown said...

This is a knife i am wanting to make :) beautiful although mine will be in boat so kinda to nice lol. Im not a blogger although i have found some of my best reading comes form blogs. I have started the knife making trade as just a metal remover atm. Your blog sir is by far the best i have found. Thank You. from KY!!!

Justin A. said...

Dan, First off I love your blog! It has been very helpful and has been a deciding factor as to me getting into knife making. I have noticed that you do a fair amount of blades with AEB-L and other stainless steels. I have recently purchased some AEB-L and would like to see how you heat treat them. Would it be possible to get a step by step instruction as to how you heat treat this steel? Have you ever thought about adding to your blog with sections on the various steels that you use; with step by step instructions on how to heat treat them? I think that would be a pretty good addition to your blog that ALOT of people would find helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Justin A.

D. Comeau said...

Hey Justin,

Thanks for your comments. I can put up a page with some "how-to" on heat treating stainless cutlery steel. However, it's important to note that most of these steels cannot be properly heat treated without a temperature-controlled oven(furnace). Precise soak temperature is critical for good results.

In addition to a temperature controlled oven, I use a stopping compound (protective coating) called Condursal X1100 which protects the steel from excessive oxidization and decarburization that can occur at high temperature. This can also be worked around with a stainless-steel foil pouch that the blade is sealed in before heat treatment.

1.) Shape blade to desired shape. Finish with 220 grit.
2.) Wipe with acetone and apply Condursal. Drip dry.
3.) Set oven to 1060°C (1948°F).
4.) At 860°C (1580°F) place knives in oven, spine down on rack.
5.) Let temperature climb to 1060°C (1948°F).
6.) Preheat tempering oven to 200°C(400°F)
7.) Hold at target temperature for 10 to 15 minutes. Thin pieces come out first.
8.) Remove and hang on hook. Blow compressed air. Optionally plate quench or quench is warmed canola oil.
9.) Once cooled to about 200°C (400°F), wearing welding gloves, move blades into tempering oven.
10.) Temper for 2 hours and let cool to room temp.
11.) Repeat another 2 hour tempering cycle at 200°C (400°F) and cool to room temp.

Note the maker may wish to add a cryogenic treatment after hardening or after the first tempering to convert as much Austenite to Martensite as possible.

Done. Finish any grinding, sand polish etc. at this stage.

Hope this helps.


Justin A. said...

Thanks for the info! I am well aware of the common practices with heat treating stainless (in this case AEB-L). I have done quite a bit of reading on it but I just wanted to see what your specific "recipe" was since I follow your blog and reference it quite frequently. I have acquired an old ceramics kiln at a garage sale and I have converted it over to PID controlled on a 240v circuit. Pretty much based off your schematic off your home made oven page. I still have to get the enclosure for the PID and SSR's set up and fine tune it, but it works really well. I can reach 1080C in about 2 hours with it. So I'm pretty excited about getting into the stainless realm now. I am for sure going to do a foil wrap and plate quench followed with a dry ice slurry cryo (as long as I can find a dry ice supplier). I also built my 2x72 from your BG-272 page! So man keep up the good work with the blog, it is sooo helpful! I am gonna take your heat treat info and run with it and see how it goes. Thanks Alot!!!

D. Comeau said...

Hey Justin, that's great. Just be mindful that SS tool wrap can fuse to the knife under high temperature/pressure. Give it a chance to cool a bit before going into the plates and don't crank the plates down too much. Some makers use a vise with their plates and this welding can be a problem when too much pressure is applied. It just needs to make good contact.

I have found several dry ice suppliers in my area (Praxair and Linde). I take my small cooler over. Dry ice will last a long time in the cooler.

Good luck with your AEB-L. It's a very good steel for cutlery.



Martin said...

I just finished building the BG-272 and was going to send you a picture but I don't see anywhere to upload it or an email to send it to.

D. Comeau said...

Hi Martin,

Send it to knives@dcknives.com. Looking forward to seeing it!


FERNET said...

Muy buenas tardes quería consultar, cual es el espesor del acero utilizado ya que quiero intentar hacer uno similar pero solo cuento con inox de 3mm

D. Comeau said...


Para un cuchillo de filete, 3 mm es bueno. Retire el acero de la hoja para hacerla 2 mm o más delgada. Esto permitirá que la hoja se flexione correctamente. Espero que la traducción esté bien.


FERNET said...

Dan, thank you very much for your explanation, you are very kind, I follow your page a lot, you have very clear concepts and all the necessary material to start in this profession. Thank you again for your help and your time.

Jorge (Fernet)