Knife Patterns

Having looked around the web for decent starting points for making knives, I found a lack of free printable knife patterns, templates or any knife profiles in PDF or other suitable format and have had mixed results. In an effort to contribute to the knife-maker community at large, I'd like to share some profiles that I have made. These are not to be considered precise, but rather a starting point for your knife project. Feel free to add your own variations, shrink, stretch, pencil over the curves etc. You can transfer them to wood, polycarbonate or steel to make a pattern.

I try to make them in different sizes so one should be a close fit to your piece of steel.
These are FREE to use. Free as in Beer. If you do use them, I'd appreciate if you sent me a note or a pic of the finished knife; that would be awesome!

Note: Save the PDF or open in Acrobat first before printing. Printing directly from your browser's preview as this can distort the dimensions. 

There are now over 75 PDF downloads now! Thanks for all of your comments and suggestions! 

More profiles at:
Knife Patterns II
Knife Patterns III
Knife Patterns IV
Knife Patterns V.

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DH18 - Drop point

BC4 Bushcraft Knife

Chef's Knives

DP16 - Drop Point

CP2 - Clip Point w/Thumb Grip

BK2 - Drop Point

 DH15 - Drop Point Hunter

 DH14 - Drop Point Hunter

 DH13 - Drop Point Hunter

DH12 - Drop Point Hunter

DH11 - Drop Point Hunter

DH10 - Drop Point Hunter

DH9 - Drop-point Hunter

DH8 -  Hunting Knife

DH7 -  Hunting Knife

DH6 - Hunting Knife

CP1 - Clip Point
Roughly based on Paul Beebe's design.

DH5 - Drop Point Hunter

KR1 - Template in various sizes.

BC3 - Bushcraft Knife

DH1 - Drop-point Hunter
This is a design based on Schuyler Lovestrand's beautiful Model H-10.

DH2 - Hunter
This is a slight variation on the Hunter theme.

LZ1 Template
This is roughly based on Marcin Bona's "Lizard" design.

BRA1 - Bushknife

DH3 - Drop-Point Hunter
With in-tang lanyard hole. Akin to the "fox."

MIL1 - Military/Police Knife
Styled similar to ESEE MIL series.

TCK1 - Tactical Style
With Western tanto style tip.

More profiles at:
Knife Patterns II
Knife Patterns III
Knife Patterns IV
Knife Patterns V.


As a rule, I always make some form of pattern when doing a first time profile. This is how I do it.

Print the profile and choose the right size for your stock. In this example I choose the 8" version. After printing, simply slap a ruler down and determine which is best. Remember that there will be some line thickness from your marker, so choosing a size that is slightly smaller than your stock is better than one which is slightly larger that your stock.

Using regular scissors I cut the paper to shape and do whatever creative curves here.
 Cut a piece of plywood, say 1/8" or 1/4" that will fit your paper cutout.
 Glue the paper down to the plywood using any PVA glue, wood glue/white school glue etc.
 Once dry, get to cutting it out with coping saw, band saw, scroll saw, whatever means you have.
 I have a small bandsaw that works great for this. Be sure to cut outside the line as we're going to want to sand this into a near-perfect shape.
 Once cut, sand to the line (or wherever you want the shape to be). I use 80 grit to get the basic shape. Sometimes a round file works good in the tight inside curves.
 Drill the holes for the pins/lanyard holes. I use a small bit, 1/8" for this as the holes are only for marking and don't have to be the actual size of the pins.
I keep several versions of the same design for giggles. Clamp the pattern down to your steel and mark the shape with a paint pen or permanent marker. Wherever possible, apply the pattern in a way the will reduce the amount of cutting. In this case I put the template near the top edge. Putting it in the middle would mean having to cut both top and bottom out. This can amount to lots of extra work depending on the thickness of the stock.

Here's a picture of Mark's knife made from DH9. Awesome work for a first knife! Thanks for the pic Mark.


Here's a picture of Pete's knife with scales made of white oak from a whiskey barrel. Thanks Pete.

These are Larry's skinners with paracord. Sweet looking hamons!

A beautiful knife based on the DH1 by Henry.

I like what Hunter did with this variation on the DH6 pattern. Very sleek!

This very nice knife and sheath were made by Andrew from the BC2 pattern. Beautiful!


clay moore said...

You a rare breed who takes there time/money to help others. God Bless You.
Thanks Again.
Have a great weekend my friend,

DanCom said...

Thank you for your kind words Clay. One gets what one gives and I very fortunate to be able to do what I do.

Kieran Klein said...

Thank you soooo much for these.

Juddy said...

Cheers for sharing, very helpful for starters! Thanks.

nifenewb said...

Thank you very much. Just what I was looking for as a new maker.

Austin Colvin said...

You da man Dan

Kyle Adams said...

These are excellent! Thank you so much!

Austin Colvin said...

where did you come up with bc3?

DanCom said...

Austin, I believe I was pouring through a library book at the time: 500 Knives: Celebrating Traditional & Innovative Designs, either that or Bark River or possibly inspired by Eli Jensen's designs.

Mark Townsend said...

Hey, there are some great designs here, made a blade based on one but have to no idea how to post/send a picture of the finished knife.

William James said...

knife is more important product in human life mostly this is use in kitchen. your discussion on this topic is to good.
hunting knives

Troy Moore said...

I want to sincerely thank you Dan for these on your site. As a new knifemaker, I also have been frustrated on finding patterns. Have bought many books (including Loveless) to find patterns that a noobie like me can start on then learn to use creativity later on. A case of beer (not just one) will be coming from the US.

DanCom said...

Troy, thank you for your kind words. A beer sounds good but you know how shipping works. Maybe you could buy a beer for a fellow noobie on my behalf. Cheers!

Henrik Popowski said...

hi, These knife patterns are very innovative. Knife is an very important tools in daily use life. It is used from cutting to survival purposes. Knife lovers will find this blog very helpful.
Thanks Check...Automatic-Knives

PJ said...

Thanks Dan for all the good info you have here. I wanted to show you a finished knife based on one of your designs, but can't seem to add a pic here. How can I get you the photo?

DanCom said...

Hi PJ,

Great to hear! Send me a photo to dan-(at)


Unknown said...

Dan. Just sent you a pic of a finished knife. Thanks for the assist. Mark

Chris W said...

I wanted to ask your opinion on the best way to cut and grid my first knife.
I decided on 440c because of articles I've read about it. Tonight was the start on the project and it quickly ended in frustration. Went through 3 (probably cheaper) hack saw blades and then tried to grind some of it with my bench grinder. I kept dipping the steel in water to keep it cool but my grinder hardly removed any material at all. I also have a hand grinder but didn't know if that would heat the steel too much. Once it starts to color change in the grind spot, thats getting it too hot?

Thanks for any tips of suggestions you could pass along.


DanCom said...

Chris, 440C is pretty tough to work and I'd expect to go through a couple of hacksaw blades, depending on the thickness of material you are working with. Get bi-metal blades, DeWalt ones are fairly good.

To profile my first blades I used some 18 tooth-per-inch blades and a bench grinder with a 'coarse' stone. Yes this does get hot. Just go slow, keep dipping and of course wear some work gloves so you can handle the hot piece. Some guys clamp the steel in a vise and use a disc grinder too. That way you're holding on to the grinder, not the steel. You can finish the profile with a file and get it accurate to your pattern lines.

Once you are done the profile, cut the bevels with a coarse file. Something like a mill bastard file. I used a jig to help guide the file. (see my Shop Jigs & Fixtures page for ideas.)

As far as getting it too hot, and any heat at this stage generally isn't a big deal as you are going to have the finished blade heat treated after all your grinding, filing and sanding are done. Once the heat treatment is done and the blade is hard, any excess heat at that point will ruin the hardness. For 440C, I would recommend sending the blade out for heat treatment, unless you have kiln capable of 1000°C (1900°F).

The best advice I could offer would be to visit the Knife Network ( and hang out in the Newbies Arena. I am learning so much from those guys and they are super helpful.

Good luck!


pripijat said...

Thanks for sharing! i made knife using one of your templates( drop point hunter dh13). i used l6 carbon steel,flat grinded and cheery wood for handles. Thanks again very useful. greatings from Serbia

Chris W said...

Thanks Dan! I am using 1/8 inch stock for the knife. I think the issue with my bench grinder was the grinding wheel wasn't course enough. Going to get better hacksaw blades and a different bringing wheel today.

I've read and watched hours of videos on You Tube about knife making and have learned a ton so far.

Larry Erwin said...

Thanks for the templates.

Hunter Whyte said...

Beginner knife maker here, just wondering why you make the knife pattern out of plywood and then trace it on to the steel, I know this is very common and probably necessary in some way that I don't understand but why don't you just trace the pattern onto the steel straight from the printed out pattern?

DanCom said...

Hi Hunter,

I make the pattern from thin plywood as it's more durable and easier to clamp and trace than paper or cardboard. Both plywood and polycarbonate are easy to shape with sanders and files until they represent a perfected shape. Once made, I can make many copies on to steel.

A busy knife maker will make patterns out of steel, where 100s of knives can be made from the initial pattern. So it's about durability.



Howard Malakoff said...

please call me dan lee at jack russell leather 517 677 1468

Howard Malakoff said...

i used several patterns thanks i also have cnc machined the handles they fit with no sanding at all

Howard Malakoff said...

would love a design for folder or flip open style i could the parts for you if you like ...Lee

Paulo Rodrigues said...

Excellent work, thanks

Alaks McGregor said...

Hi, I am going to start selling my knives and was wondering if you mined me using your patterns for commercial use?

DanCom said...


It was always the intention that the maker would add his or her own flavor when creating a permanent pattern. Every aspiring knifemaker will sell a knife sooner or later and that's a great thing. I have no issues with you selling a knife which has it's origins in one of these templates. "Free as in beer" means I won't come asking you to pay me later.

Please note that I maintain copyrights on the PDF files and reproducing the files for commercial use requires written permission.

Best of luck in your endeavour!


Rudy said...

This will be a great help as I am just getting started making knifes.

Thanks So Much

DanCom said...

Thanks Rudy. I am trying to document as many knifemaking processes as possible. I am always looking for suggestions. If you think I missed something, please let me know.



Curtis Poppenberg said...

thanks for sharing patterns
like to sends pics of knives made with your patterns.

Anonymous said...

You're great! Saved lots of these nice patterns. Thank you!

Justin Presson said...

What program do you use to draw up your knife patterns?
I need to do that with some of my designs so I can save them electronically.


DanCom said...

Hi Justin,

Adobe Illustrator or any vector graphics editor (OpenOffice Draw, CorelDRAW etc.) will let you draw or trace and make the shape in vector form. I use the Spline and Bezier functions. Once in vector form the image of the knife can be scaled without losing quality.

Best wishes!


Paul Borash said...

Thank you for all of your hard work for us knifemakers out there. Best of wishes from Montana.

DanCom said...

Thanks for your kind words. Always great to hear from our neighbours in Montana!

Kevin Hakney said...

You got a really useful blog I have been here reading for about an hour. I am a newbie and your success is very much an inspiration for me.

Tool Steels For Demolition Knives & Tool Steels For Slitter and Side Trimmer Knives

James Tilt said...

i made a bar of damascus and made a knife with it based ona template here. how do i get a photo to you?

DanCom said...

Hi James,

You can send it to: knives/@/dcknives/./com (remove the slashes)



Ubaldo said...

Dan, i've never thought there was such a useful source like this for knife designing. Amazing.
Thanks for time and hardwork
Blessing from Italy
All the best

DanCom said...


Thank you for your kind words.

max bess said...

Wonderful drawings ! Do you have a file (zip, rar, etc. archive) with all these drawings together? Would you be so kind as to help me find them ?

DanCom said...

Thank you for the suggestion. I do not currently have all the PDFs in one file. I am however working on a database which will allow you to search by style or key words to locate and download a knife pattern.


Avinash Dwivedi said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Matt Neel said...

Thanks for posting these. I used and very slightly modified "CP2 - Clip Point w/Thumb Grip" for my 1st crack at crafting my own blade. The finished product is filled with flaws but damn I'm proud! How can I send you pictures so that I can fulfill your request for pictures of finished products?

DanCom said...

Hi Matt! Sounds awesome. You can send me a pic via email. I have a link at the top of this page: Knife Patterns III

varun009 said...

Thank you so much! I'm going to download all of these. I was breaking my head trying to design a knife and I had basically given up. But then I finally got to work and designed one, I kept changing things until I had completely changed the look a few times over. I don't think I'll have a problem drawing now but I'll need a backup since I'm not too good at drawing smaller knives.

Unknown said...

Thanks from Chile, (Quellon, Chile).

Kooter said...

Really appreciate the tips, patterns and ALL the good factual info. Just completed a blade smithing course this summer and hope to build a small forge soon. Your photos and advice are right on.
Glad to see a fellow Canuck who is willing to share the knowledge in an open manner, makes me proud to be Canadian.
Thanks Kooter

DanCom said...

Thanks for your kind words Kooter. Happy Thanksgiving weekend to you!

Simon Baker said...

Great designs, thanks from the UK! Making some now!

DanCom said...

Cheers Simon!

Unknown said...

Thank you so much for all the insightful and helpful tips. I do have one question, I recently came into possession of a few hidden tang (?) blades. From the point to plunge line their about 8ins. How would attach scales to these? Would you add a weight of some sort to balance the handle and blade?

DanCom said...

Normally for hidden tang knives we wouldn't use scales. I would use a block and hollow it out for the tang to fit into. Then I would glue and pin. If the tang goes all the way though the handle (through tang) you can attach a butt of say brass or stainless steel. This would put some weight at the back end to counter a heavy blade.

Good luck!


Brett Benton said...

Thanks Dan!! These are perfect templates for what I've been looking for! I'll send you some pics really soon! Brett

Unknown said...

Hi Dan, the link to the BC4 template appears to be broken? And many thank's for all the templates.

DanCom said...

Thanks for the heads up. I fixed the links.



MARK ADAMS said...

Thanks for the patterns! There is very little truly "free" things on the web anymore. I transferred some to scrap plastic laminate I had in the shop, formed it with the 2X72 and now have thin, durable patterns. Thanks again and will send some pictures once my work becomes worthy.


DanCom said...

Thanks Mark. Giving is the way to ensure we always have plenty. ;-) I hope that you find some useful in your craft. Please let me know how your knives turn out. They are always super rewarding!


Anonymous said...

Where can u buy the steel and where do u ship it to get heat treated

DanCom said...

I get steel from Canadian Knifemaker Supply. I heat treat myself in my shop. If you are in the USA, try Admiral Steel, New Jersey Steel Baron, Jantz Supply or USA Knifemaker. (search for knife making supplies). For heat treatment, try someone local first. If you can't find a heat treatment service near to you, there's Peter's, Paul Bos, Texas Knife Supply and Pacific Metallurgical. Good luck!

Unknown said...

These are great, thanks for sharing!

Unknown said...

Thank you so much for these!!! I'm making some of these for my Friends for Christmas/Birthdays!

Brett Myhre said...

Hey was wondering if your email was full. Tried sending some pics of my first knife but kept getting a bounce back.

DanCom said...

Possibly some issues with the server. Mail seems to be working ok.

LostBot(IRL) said...

my email just failed also

kiskasksksakks said...

There is no god.

Cool patterns though.

Stancu Stefanita said...

Thank you very much for your pdf. Best regards from Romania.

Hamza Spike said...

so how do you existe?

Ely Doodson said...

Hi I'm thinking of making a small knife my dad could use to skim small game like rabbit, any suggestions on the design i should use? I really appreciate people like you giving people that want to start out, a resource such as this one;] thanks!

DanCom said...

These knives are commonly called "bird and trout" amd feature a full length, slightly skinny handle, and a thin shallow blade about 4" (100 mm) long and 3/4" (20 mm) high. Take a paring knife as a starting point.

Matheus Wintruff said...

hey man, please, can you send me and zip or something like that with all pdfs?of all 4 pages? o would love it, im making an workshop with some friends and i love making things im making one now i have drew and i will make a lot of knifes with your templates or with changed templates (by me uahuahauha) can you do that for me?

Crets Vincent said...

Hi DanCom,

First of all, i love your blog! It has a lot of useful info and the knife patterns are awesome. I based my first knife on the BK-2 template. It was quite an adventure, it took me a couple of months to finish, but I am very happy with the result.

Here are some pics:

blade length = 210mm (8.3')
blade thickness = 4mm (0,16')
Hardness = 58-59 HRC
Micarta handle
Kydex sheath

(As I live in Belgium - Europe, the shipping cost from US were way to high. Therefor I got my supplies from ''. A tip for all European knife makers)

Greetings, and keep up the good work.

Joe said...


Unknown said...

Hey DanCom, I was wondering if you had any templates of camping knives with a bottle opener at the bottom? Thank you!

D. Comeau said...

I do not as of yet. But seeing that they are increasing in popularity I could come up with something.

What ever happened to the twist-off cap? :-)


Craig Stephens said...

Dude...thanks...I'm starting out making my first knife and I'll be using a design from above. It's gonna be kick ass.

D. Comeau said...

Right on! I'd love to see how it turns out. I am afraid you will become addicted to knifemaking. :-)


James Tate said...

Hi there im starting to make knives and i was wondering what program you use to make these wonderful templates
thanks tate

D. Comeau said...


I use a couple of programs. One is OpenOffice Draw, the other is Corel Draw (old school). As long as the software is capable of making "vector drawings" then it's worthwhile using. I have a post and video on using OpenOffice Draw.



Austin Farr said...

How does anything exist? There was lack of existance then boom... stuff.

Andrew Wainacht said...


I've been using your knife patterns for quite some time. I wanted to say thank you for such a great resource and to show you a blade I made recently using your BC2 pattern.

Thanks again!

D. Comeau said...

Andrew, That is one very handsome knife and sheath. I would like to add the photo below.

Thanks for commenting.


Gerben Kalken Van said...

Hello dan,

I used one of your template,s , and now i,m supposed to send you a picture of the finished knife, but i can,t find a email adres to send it to

The netherlands

MVmaker said...

I just came across your site. Truly amazing for you to share all this information. Deeply grateful as I struggle with design more than with making.

D. Comeau said...

Focus on the making part. Your designs will come out of that.

Thanks man, Keep on it. Send a pic.


Unknown said...

Hey Dan great site thanks for the patterns. Here is one i just finished based on the 1LZ pattern. Feel free to add it to the site.


Unknown said...

This is a treasure trove. Thank you for your work here.

Unknown said...

Awesome knife templates. I noticed you have a HT1 and HT3 knife designs but I can't find HT2. Is there an HT2 design?

Charles Akin said...

If someone says God Bless, they are just hoping you receive blessings. If you want to consider is free Karma then so be it. In the end they are simply being nice and hope that good things come your way. I don't understand why folks cant just take it for what it is, being nice. :)

Unknown said...

I've started working on the BC4 pattern using an old metal file i had. After softening it, i ground it down, and super glued the pattern to it. Using a cutting disc i cut it out. Sanded it with a hand sander 36 grit, up to 120. I'm now hand filing the edge, it's going great! I'll post a pic soon!

Michael L. Kent said...

I can combine them into one file in 15 seconds if you like. Send me your e-mail.

Michael McClean said...

I just finished a copy of your 120Vac oven and the ramping slows way down around 440 deg f. Is that normal or do I have do do something else? Great build.

D. Comeau said...

Hi Michael,

The graph I plotted is on the HT-2100 build page.

Mahedi Ronn said...

HI are you.this is just awesome and one of the best content about pattern of hunting knives.I want to sincerely thank you Dan for these on your site. As a new knife maker, I also have been frustrated on finding patterns. Have bought many books to find patterns that a newbie like me can start on then learn to use creativity later lot of thanks.

Bill Erwin said...

Thank you for the patterns. The patterns and ideas that you have shared has jump started my new hobby. I toyed with the idea for a long time but did not know where to start until I came across your website. Now I am completely obsessed with knife making and cant wait to get home from work and work on my latest project.

D. Comeau said...

Hi Bill,

Yes I know the feeling. It's an amazing thing to create a very useful tool and be in control of so many aspects of making of it. Good luck with your latest project.


Carlos Valenzuela said...

Thanks for sharing bro

Hasrian Rudi said...

Thanks for the knife pattern , I with my son do a project on KR 1 out of old rusty hoe . It's done . We are from a very small town called Sidikalang in Indonesia

D. Comeau said...


You can email me at (remove hyphens). Best wishes,


Unknown said...

Thanks ypu for sharing! Made the Lizard design, came out beautifuly!

Gerhard Odendaal said...

Hi everyone. I just want to know that is the reason for that little bow in the blade?

D. Comeau said...

Hi Gerhard, which blade are you referring to?

Gerhard Odendaal said...

Well most of your paterns, just before the you hot the handle. In the bevel there is a little half sircle cut out of the blade. I'm trying my best to explain this as english is not my home language.

D. Comeau said...

Hi Gerhard,

The little half circle is called a sharpening choil and it allows for sharpening the blade right up to the ricasso. Larger ones can be used for finger placement and are called finger choils.


Gerhard Odendaal said...

Thank you for the help! Going to begin making my first knife in two days time, did all the research I could!

Tom Ownsby said...

Thank you so much for sharing !

Jeremy Landry said...

Have you ever done a nessmuk pattern, I have one that I drew up but it's not quite the traditional shape I was after.

D. Comeau said...

Hi Jeremy,

Yes, but only one Nessmuk here. Thanks for visiting.


Jeremy Landry said...

Thank you.

Conundrum said...

Dear DC Knives,

Do you offer a wood stabilizing service?



D. Comeau said...

No I do not offer stabilizing service. Try Knife & Gun Finishing, WSSI or Wood Dynamics.



Brian kane said...

hello Dan have you done any straight blade razors for shaving?

Chad Hopkins said...

Thank you very much for putting these out here. I sent an email with some pics of a damascus gut hook I made using your pattern. Hope you enjoy it .


Rennie Raines said...

Dan , I have a couple drawings could I pay you to put them into a pattern ??

D. Comeau said...


I don't take money. Email me what you have. My address is (note the @ sign was replaced with -at- to prevent email address scraping).


Unknown said...

Great resource! However, for some reason the DH8 template brings up the DH7 instead.

D. Comeau said...

Thanks for pointing this out. I will check on it.



Prosper EliteCapital said...

I have been working on two of the knives for the last week. The blades are done just working on the handles. Thank you for the starting point. It gave me the time to learn to work with the metal and not worry about the design. I did make some small changes along the way and Ill post pics one the handles are on. Thanks again!

Unknown said...

Hi guys
Could I maybe suggest pitting up some knife etching design's perhaps?

Unknown said...


Love the blog. I used a template and made a knife from it. I lost my brother a few years ago. His truck has been sitting the the yard ever since. We are in the process of fixing it up for my nephew.

I took some steel from parts that were replaced and getting scrapped, oak from a tree in our yard we had a swing on and climbed as kids and made this knife (see link).

It came out great. Thank you for the template. This is only my second knife so I am looking forward to more projects.

fidoasx said...

Hi, I send my handmade knife from your drawing.
Small filett knife.

Thanks mate

Petr Fidler

Paulus Priems said...

Thanks, Dan, much appreciated.

Balo said...

Thanks. I love your page. Nice work.

Unknown said...

Thankyou so much just finished my first knife using you template.

Ray Mackey said...

I have to thank you for your kindness and sharing!
I know it's no simple feat to supply this info for so many of us trying to get into this great hobby...many thanks and may God Bless!!

Unknown said...

Awesome templates, can't thank you enough.

D. Comeau said...


Great job on the knife. Unfortunately the comments don't allow images, but I reposted the link here.


KenB said...

There has to a an intelligence far greater than human to make the world so beautiful- when all humans do is to destroy it.

Unknown said...

Hi Dan, I would like to use some of your content on my website and share it with other beginners...I would like to publicly credit you for the materials used. is this something you would approve of?
thanks in advance.

D. Comeau said...


Drop me a note at knives at dcknives . com. Cheers,


Jahangir said...

Anybody knows what is the thickness of the steel for that knife ?

D. Comeau said...


What knife do you refer to?


Jahangir said...

Hi Dan ,
BC2 ,the last picture .

Thanks ,

D. Comeau said...

The maker didn't specify. I would be using something like 5/32" or 4mm.

Jahangir said...

Thank you Dan ! in general is there any guideline how to choose the thickness ?

D. Comeau said...

Hi Jahangir,

It's up to the maker to decide on the thickness based on the steel and intended application. A paring knife will be thin, say 3/32" (~2 mm) as it is intended to slice and peel fruits and vegetables. Whereas a bushcraft knife is generally more robust as it can be used for chopping, scraping, even boring holes with the tip. The blade needs to be suited to the application. A filleting knife is going to be around 1/16" (1.5 mm) or less down the spine. For a starting point, take a look at production knives that are for specific purposes and gauge what the approximate thickness should be.


Jahangir said...

Thank you so much ! It was a useful information .

Unknown said...

Hi Dan, I made my first knife this weekend on a course taught by Tiago De Matos "Wild Edge Knives" and have been bitten by the bug. He pointed me over to your site and I can't believe how much useful information you have for all levels of Knife smiths especially beginners like me. So thank you so much, I hope to post some pics on soon. James

D. Comeau said...

Thanks James!

Tiago is a great guy. I am glad that you enjoyed the course.

All the best,


Matthew said...

Hi Dan, just wondering if you are aware of this site using a bunch of your patterns as of their own?

Idk whats up just saw ot and couldn't see any credit to you or anything, and it didn't seem right to me.
I've used your templates alot when i was starting out btw, and still occasionally.... which helped me heaps.
And your tutorials too.
So if you want their legs broken or something.... ;D

D. Comeau said...

Thanks for the heads up Matt.


Unknown said...

Hi Dan. Just want to say thank you for your info. Me and my son are noobies in this trade. We build a belt grinder from your info and we made a team effort in making a chefs knife from one of your patterns. I use this knife all the time in the kitchen now. Thanx again for teaching us new skills.