Friday, November 14, 2014


I scrubbed the blade up a lot with 180 grit then 240 and finally 320 before etching. Then I cleaned the area to be etched with acetone.

With the stencil down and pad whetted with electrolyte solution and etched and marked.
This is the result. Got to love Ernie's stencils!
On the right side I put the steel type. Now a wrap of the blade and we're ready to put the front bolster pieces on.
I line one piece up perfectly and clamp. Making sure the clamp isn't where the drill bit will come through!
A #30 bit makes a perfect hole for 1/8" pins.
After one hole is drilled, put a pin in it. I cut some cheap 1/8" steel rod for temporary pins. Once it's pinned, align and drill the second hole. The reason I did this was the bolster piece is small and difficult to clamp and drill both holes .
Once the second hole is drilled, put a pin in it. Then align the second bolster piece and clamp. Now remove a pin and drill right through. Put the pin back in (all the way through both bolster pieces) and drill the last hole.
Cut some pins of the same material as the bolster pieces, in this case 416 stainless steel. Make them about 1/4 longer than required. This will allow for lots of radial expansion when pressed. Clean the pins with sand paper and clean the holes in the bolster pieces with acetone. Also clean the tang if there's any filings, bluing or felt pen on it.
Place the pins through the pieces and head over to the press.
Here I use some #10 flat washers. These prevent the pins from pressing all the way flush on either side. I give the pins a light press, just enough to make the bolster pieces stay. Then another squeeze of the pieces themselves. These should tight against the tang and no gap visible.
Now press them hard. They will expand and fill the hole with great force.
Now on the grinder with a 60 grit belt and you can see they have disappeared! Perfect.
Other side. Sweet.

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