Wednesday, January 21, 2015

DH1 - 3 & 4 SHAPING

After the separation, the twins were ground and finished as individuals. This is the during the rough grinding on the belt grinder.
Cleaning up the bevel with some wet sanding.

  This is what it looks like after hand sanding.

Now we need to lay out where the handle components will go so we know where to put the pin holes in the tang. Here I'll be using three 1/8" pins and one 3/16" pin in the middle of the scale with two 1/8" pins off that middle pin on an angular line.

Once the pin holes are in, some mass removal holes to lighten up the back end of the knife.
Looks like Swiss cheese at this point, but it's feeling a little heave on the blade side. When the scales are attached it should be very close to balanced.

Foil wrapping. I create an envelope out of stainless steel.
The envelope is sealed by folding and pressing the edges.
Ready to take out of the oven after 20 minutes of 1065°C.
Tiny bit hot in there. I used good fire gloves and set of long nose pliers.
This is the first knife after coming out. You can see it's still very hot. The outline is visible through the foil wrap.
Pressing the knife between two 1/2" thick copper plates. This sucks the heat out the steel in a hurry. In less than a minute it's cool enough to handle with bare hands.
This is what the DH1-3 looks like when opening the foil.

The two are together again and will go into the tempering oven at 200°C (~400°F) for two hours. Then cooled, then another two hours at 200°C.


samross said...

Hi, Why do you drill all the extra holes in the area of the knife under the scales?

D. Comeau said...

These extra holes have two purposes. They reduce the weight of the handle and create a better balance between the blade and the handle; and they also help with the epoxy by greatly increasing the surface area for the epoxy to bond to.

If the handle scales were to be a heavier material, I'd want to remove more steel by making more holes or larger holes to balance the knife out.