Wednesday, May 12, 2021

DH65 Modified Skinner Nitro-V

Here's another KN64 with a slanted grain cocobolo handle on Nitro-V stock. The blade is 4" long and over it fits very well in the hand. The aim here was something simple and elegant.   



















Dan

Sunday, April 25, 2021

KN48-6 Nitro-V Red Maple Chef's Knife

And...another KN48 full tang

This one is number six in the clan. A sleek and slicy 8.25" Nitro-V cheffy, featuring a handle shaped from stabilized red curly maple that tapers out to the butt for a super comfy and confident grip. Bolsters are 416 stainless accented by black liners. Pins are 416 and a 1/4" stainless mosaic in the centre position. Weighing in at a nimble 168 g (5.9 oz) and balanced for pinch grip hold; certainly a pleasure to operate.   





















Thanks for stopping by. Happy making!

Dan

Thursday, April 8, 2021

TP4 Filleting Knife in Green Maple Burl

This is a small 6" filleting knife with a trailing point blade made from AEB-L and green stabilized dyed maple burl. The centre mosaic pin I made myself from copper rod and tube from the hobby store. 

 














Thanks for looking,

Dan

Sunday, March 14, 2021

KN49 Hidden Tang with Ironwood and Stainless Steel

This is the latest on the bench, an 8" hidden tang chef's knife from the KN49 shape. The steel is 154CM stainless cutlery steel and the handle is made from stainless steel, copper and desert ironwood. The decorative band is a slice of peacock acrylester sandwiched between thin copper sheet. 


Thanks for looking!

Dan

Thursday, March 4, 2021

How I Do Full Tang Bolster in Stainless Steel

A picture tutorial on shaping and pinning two-part bolsters on a full tang blade. 

The bolster shape that I chose for the KN48-5 was a shape in my bolster patterns

Starting with some flattened 3/8" 416 stainless steel bar stock I rough cut the basic shape on the band saw. With some layout dye and a scribe I mark the final shape on the steel. Then bring them close to the line on the belt grinder. 





I use the tang bolster pin holes in the tang to drill and check the pin alignment. I cut  two pieces of  plain old 1/8" steel rod as temporary pins to hold the two bolster piece together while they are shaped. 


Here I used a 2" diameter wheel to shape the backs of the bolster pieces. Keep an eye on squareness and symmetry. 

Using the 45° table, I cut the bevels in the bolster. I have to careful to preserve symmetry, so I alternate left side and right side. 
Yes, I am wearing band-aids as I feel they give better grip when wet and reduce the pain on the fingers from heat build up. This little block of steel will get hot. Have a bucket of water handy. 


Once the bevels are worked to 120 grit, I will put them on some flat sand paper and lightly work each side to remove any lateral scratches. I will sand to 220 and 320 in this manner. We want no visible large  scratches.


After 400 or 600 grit I go the buffer with green compound. Only polish the fronts. The rest of the faces will get finished when the scales are on.






I cut the pins to be 1/4" longer than the the tang and bolster pieces all added up. In this case, I make them stick out 1/8" on each side. For these pins I will use the real 416 stainless pin stock. It's important to use the same material as the bolster pieces as this helps hide the pins. 


Pins are given a quick rough up with 220 grit sandpaper and bolster pieces get soaked washed in acetone. 








I make sure the insides of the holes are cleaned as well. I cannot stress enough how important clean pins and holes are. Clean the ricasso area of the blade as well. No grease and no grit allowed. 

I dry the parts and assemble the bolster and give the pins a little peening with a hammer to keep them from slipping in the holes. I carefully place four #6 flat washers and head over to the hydraulic press. 

The press squashes the pins a little first then it hits the washers. These act to press the bolster together and hard against the tang. I crank it a full 20 tons or whatever the max a "20 ton" hydraulic press will do. 



The result is the pins are expanded and the bolster pieces are super tight to the tang. If everything is flat you'll have nice lines around the pieces with no gaps. 


A quick zip on the belt grinder and the pins dissolve into the bolster. 




From this step, I will fit the scales and liners on. After glue-up I will shape the bolsters round on the top and bottom to fit the fingers.








Dan

Saturday, February 27, 2021

KN48-5 8" Chef's Knife in 154CM

The latest from the workbench. An 8" chef's knife made from 154CM stainless cutlery steel and polished stainless bolster. The scales are stabilized and dyed poplar burl.  





Saturday, February 6, 2021

DIY Belt Grinder Kit for UK/Europe

DIY Belt Grinder Kit Available for UK Makers

I wanted to let my friends in the UK and Europe know about a great DIY grinder kit that can get you up and grinding with only a little welding. Made for 2"x72" belts, but also 50x2000 mm belts!  

The packages feature precision cut parts made from 10 mm thick steel, so it's very solid. Designed with ease of assembly in mind. Parts interlock for accurate, square results. 

Kits are sold with or without wheels, and there's single phase or three phase motor options. Everything you need for building a professional calibre grinder at a fraction of the cost.

Check out Gundog Forge on eBay.

Disclosure: To support my blog, I occasionally offer products and receive compensation from vendors who are making great products of interest to fellow knifemakers. This helps pay for web hosting and projects that I am working on and will be sharing with you soon!

Grind on,

Dan