You may want to know first that this cuts across the spine and therefor doesn't fill well with epoxy. I did a variation that did fill well for a knife shown below.
What you will need:
- Ruler
- Permanent marker, fine point
- Round file, about 3/16" in diameter. Chainsaw file works good.
- Triangular needle file
- Vise
1). Mark the spine with the marker. Alternate left and right. I used 3/8" (10mm) spacing.
2). Cut ellipses (ovals) on the left side every other mark. Do this by holding the round file at 45° front and 45° side compound angle. See graphics below.
3). Flip the knife around in the vise and cut ovals on the opposite side, every other mark. The cuts must alternate.
4). With the needle file, cut the 'lines' half way between the ovals at a 45° angle. Also with the needle file, cut the first and last line.
5). With the needle file, smooth the line to face transitions.


And 45° to the face.
Filing down and forward
Here is what it looks like at Step 3, which I decided to stay with for this knife.
When attaching the scales, I make sure lots of extra epoxy flows into the filework. Then grind everything carefully back to the steel.
A finished knife with the simple filework on some 5/16" stock.

3 comments:
Fantástico, sensacional mesmo, estou conhecendo agora esse seu canal e será ótimo pra mim. Estou iniciando na cutelaria, já fiz duas facas e tenho mais três a caminho e suas informações serão ótimas. Vejo muito os vídeos de Walter Sorrels também, me inspiro em vocês, parabéns e obrigado pelo rico material. Célio Humberto de Palmas, Tocantins, Brasil.
Nice work...so when you assembly the knife do you let the epoxy or resin or whatever you use seep out of the gaps in the pattern or clean it? I can't really tell from the photo
Yes, when I attach the scales with pins and epoxy, I make sure lots of extra epoxy goes into the grooves of the filework. Then, when the epoxy is hard, I sand it back to the steel. This way everything is smooth.
Dan
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